Today we made our third visit to Holman Cellars, a winery in Napa where some really interesting wines are being made. What keeps drawing us back is the unique setup at Holman Cellars, where there are multiple winemakers and wine labels working out of the same space, sharing the same crush pad, and learning from each other’s successes (and occasional mistakes). This may not sound so unusual but today’s Napa Valley is dominated by huge estate vineyards and high-volume wineries producing tens of thousands – or in some instances, hundreds of thousands – of cases annually. Many wineries are owned or being acquired by international mega-corporations, including some of the most well-known family wineries in the Valley. Without question, the wine industry has turned into a very competitive business.
It bears remembering, however, that before Napa Valley was one of the worlds’s most respected wine regions, wineries were still struggling to find the right balance of viticulture and enology. The wineries of mid-20th Century Napa Valley – Mondavi, Beringer, Freemark Abbey, Inglenook – realized that they could not succeed individually, but rather would need to succeed together. In 1944, seven vintners formed the Napa Valley Vintners, which today boasts over 500 members. There are many stories of the early “pioneer” winemakers helping each other out with tools or equipment, lessons learned and shared successes.
This “pioneer” spirit is alive and well at Holman Cellars, which is also home to Newberry Wines and Cadle Family Wines. This afternoon we had the pleasure of being hosted by Brian Newberry, the man behind the Newberry label.
Brian makes wine using the same small crush pad as Jason Holman and Kevin Cadle and they also share barrels and other equipment.
Compared to many other wineries, their space is small but they have a cozy tasting room as well as a large table for tasting inside the barrel room itself. We tasted the white wines in the tasting room and moved into the barrel room to taste the reds.
One of the great things about wine tasting at a cooperative location like Holman is that you get to try wines from multiple labels. Each time we’ve been to Holman, we’ve seen each of the winemakers pour not only their own wines but also the wines from the co-op partners. This afternoon we had the chance to taste not just Brian’s Newberry label but also a couple of Kevin’s Cadle Family wines as well as a wine from Jason Holman’s Uncharted label.
Our first wine was a 2015 Newberry Chenin Blanc, a real treat for us as there are very few wineries in Napa that still make wine made from this grape variety.
In the 1980’s there were still over 2,000 acres planted to Chenin Blanc, compared to less than 100 acres based on a recent survey. Vineyard owners have systematically torn out Chenin Blanc and replaced the acreage with vines that make more economic sense: Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Brian Newberry was able to find a unique vineyard in Yolo County, tucked up against the Sacramento River, and works closely with the vineyard owner to grow and deliver the best grapes for his Newberry Chenin Blanc. We really enjoyed the wine which was crisp, bone-dry (no residual sugar), and aged in a combination of stainless steel and neutral French oak. In other words, “our type of white wine”: balanced with strong acidity and minerality but with plenty of fruit flavor on the finish.
Our second white wine was from Kevin’s label – 2015 Cadle Family Gewürztraminer. Like the Newberry white, the Cadle Gewurtz was crisp and dry but also a nice balance of acidity/minerality and fruit flavor.
Too often, Gewürztraminer can be overly sweet and syrupy, drinking more like a dessert wine than something you want to consume on its own or with appetizers or fish. Cadle’s version, however, was made the way we enjoy it and could definitely be enjoyed with or without food (we’re imagining a good book and a fire).
After tasting these two whites, we moved to the wooden table inside the barrel room to taste three red wines – one each from the Newberry, Cadle and Holman labels. Our first red wine was a 2015 Cadle Family Sangiovese, a full-bodied wine with flavors of black fruit, spices and medium tannins on the finish.
Kevin sources the Sangiovese grapes from Knights Valley in Sonoma County, a location that has elevations ranging from 500 to over 1,000 feet. We have had Sangiovese wine from a few wineries in Napa Valley, one in Oregon, and several in Italy and we would stack the Cadle offering up against any of them.
The second red wine offering was Newberry 2014 Cabernet Franc, a varietal that more often is used for blending with other wines, typically Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.
Not so many wineries make a single-varietal Cabernet Franc, although several in Napa Valley now do. The Newberry Cab Franc was simply delicious with a velvety mouthfeel and plenty of acidity and spice to complement the cranberry and cherry flavors.
Brian sources his Cab Franc fruit from Rutherford, one of the best sources in all of Napa Valley for Bordeaux-type varietals. The vineyards that he pulls his fruit from are at a high elevation, around 600 feet above sea level. We were intrigued by the color of the Cab Franc – ruby and garnet but much lighter than we often see with wines made exclusively from this varietal. Brian’s Cab Franc was translucent and could almost have passed for a dark Pinot Noir. Newberry refuses to add color as other wineries admit to doing.
Our final red wine was a proprietary red blend from Jason Holman’s Uncharted label.
The 2012 Uncharted red blend was also delicious but different from many of the other red blends that we have tasted in Napa Valley. Jason sources his fruit from Coombsville, a well-known AVA in Napa Valley, but his wine is more complex than many other wineries’ proprietary red blends. It is typical of Napa red blends to be super high in alcohol and very fruit-forward – a style that we enjoy drinking from high-quality producers, by the way. However, Jason’s Uncharted Proprietor’s Blend balances the flavors of dark fruit with acidity and minerality and strong tannins on the finish.
Having tasted wines from three winemakers in the Holman cooperative, it is clear that a singular approach to making wines binds them together: buying high-quality fruit and making wines that are clean, crisp and true to the terroir where the grapes were grown. Another thing that binds these winemakers together is their interest in exploring varietals that are not necessarily “typical” of Northern California wine regions. Brian, Kevin, and Jason are making a wide range of different wines and willing to source them from different vineyards both in Napa Valley and elsewhere. As we were leaving the wine tasting today, Brian showed us a barrel that Jason Holman is using to age a wine blend that, if we heard him correctly, holds 43 separate grape varietals! What emerges from this barrel may be a fantastic and delicious blend … or it may be a horrible disaster. Either way, the guys are going to enjoy the process of having experimented with something new – the kind of pioneer spirit that marked the early days of Napa Valley and is starting to show itself again in some great micro-wineries across the Valley.
John & Irene Ingersoll
December 30, 2016